The folded portion of the hem was woven as plain weave without the pattern weft to reduce the bulk of the hem section.
The tabby pick of the warp yarn between each pattern pick is used to help create stable fabric with longer end floats of the pattern weft yarn. The tabby picks need to alternate 1 & 2 in sync with the pattern picks to get a good tie down. The tabby picks are not shown in the book treadling, but by treadle numbers from the book (top down) treadling would start as 1, 10, 2, 9, 1, 8, 2, 7, 1, 8, 2, 7 … and so on with similar insertion of 1 & 2 between the pattern picks that are shown.
For weft yardage needed, PPI, and weaving time expectations, treat similar to other 2 shuttle weaves with tabby (e.g. overshot or summer winter).
