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Block Twill is fun to play with, especially with colorways. Used only one color for warp, but is great fun in color stripes. I chose this pattern particularly to reacquaint myself with profile draft, though the draft attached is a full draft/draw down. Started and finished with plain weave hems using 8/2 cotton, but could have used sewing thread to reduce bulk.

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Towels are a bit on the wide side. Could have made them narrower and/or longer as they came out rather square.

Treadling: Woven in plain weave for40 picks white, Turq/White, White/Turq 5 times, 14 picks white, Pink/White, White/Pink 5 times, 14 picks white, Orange/White, White/Orange 5 times, 22 picks of white, 11″ of Swiss Lace pattern and reverse. 1″ hems woven with 24/2 cotton. Hems sewn by hand.

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I like towels as usable samples of structures that are new to me because even a failure will probably still dry dishes. Diversified Plain Weave (using Madelyn Van der Hoogt’s “new DPW threading and treadling” see Weaver’s Summer 1997) is a really fun structure I wanted to play with. It has a simple 3 thread unit in both warp and weft that lends itself to using block designs.

A post on Facebook by Robyn Spady led me to a document on handweaving.net – Block Drafts from Heinrich Leisy’s Pattern Book – where I found a 4 block profile draft that appealed to me. I used Fibreworks to interpret it as a DPW draft. The warp is 1 thread thick (4/8 cotton) and 2 threads thin (2/16 cotton) repeated across. I wound the 3 threads at once to make chains that I then handpainted using MX dyes in shades of green for the main warp and navy for accent stripes. I did 5 towels and a large sample on the warp, playing with different weft colours for each one. The weft sequence is 2 shots 2/16 on plain weave treadles followed by one shot of 4/8 on a pattern treadle. My Tempo Treadle was indispensable for keeping my place in the very long treadling sequence.

The neatest thing about this structure is the colour effect. There is very little blending of warp and pattern weft colours so choices that would otherwise get muddled in a weave structure like plain weave (e.g. red pattern on the green background) actually work quite well. The thin threads are thin enough that they don’t seriously skew the background colour, either, though next time I might try a thin weft in a colour and value close to the warp colours to make it disappear even more and I might try an even finer thin weft (2/20 or 2/30). Note that the first towel looked sleazy on the loom so I cut it off and washed it to check. It shrank quite a bit in both length and width and filled in nicely with a beautiful hand.

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I modified this draft off of the towel created in the Vavstuga Basics class.

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Using the idea that if six colors is good, 60 would be better, I chose yarns from the blues and greens in my 10/2 stash, included cotton I had hand dyed, and wound various stripes onto the warping board, trying to balance colors and vary width of stripes. Although I warp back to front, I then threaded different designs grouping and separating as I thought looked nice. I varied stripes and complimented plain weave with two-two twill, sometimes rising, sometimes falling.

What has resulted is a one-of-a-kind towel that I couldn’t reproduce if I wanted to!

The towel is machine hemmed, but with a foot peddle powered sewing machine, which I take to be about as hand made as using my loom.

The draft file I have attached is a sample, not the whole towel.

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I used cotton (unmercerized) for both warp and weft. Length shrinkage was close to 20% while width was a more expected 10%. I added a band woven using a tabby treadling at one end of the towel. An easy weave and the design is pleasantly different on each side. My color choice was natural for the warp and a brownish eggplant for the weft. Once woven, the brownish eggplant appears as a dark brown. Not a cheerful color but it won’t show stains easily!

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I saw this color palette on Pinterest and chose 4 different colors for the warp. (WEBS: Black Forest, Burnt Sienna, Tobacco and Eggplant.) The width of the stripes and colors can be adjusted to whatever you should desire. Each color stripe was 34 end wide on my towel and I just alternated the two twills and arranged the colors symmetrically. I originally had planned to sley at 20 EPI but got carried away with the stripes and would have had a very wide towel. Changing to 24 EPI brought it back to a reasonable width. Either sett would work fine. Use a floating selvage on both sides.

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This was fun to weave because of the color way of stripes, but the weave structure would be lost if just a single color were used.

The 20/2 linen was too fine to use with cottolin and 8/2 cotton.

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Making the graphic square is more important than the actual PPI. If 19 PPI gives you a square graphic, then it’s good. It was fun to weave, my first attempt at using cottolin.

The draft actually calls for 18 EPI. I only had a 10 dent reed available, so I went with 17.5 EPI.

Loom width 18.89 inches in the reed, 17.5 inches off loom, and 16.5 inches finished. Loom length 34.75 inches off loom(before hemming) and 29.75 inches finished and hemmed.