410 warp ends total. 408 for pattern, plus one extra at each selvedge. Draft adapted for cotton instead of linen/cotolin.
Woven using picks of sewing thread at each end to create fold lines for the hem. Sewing thread was removed prior to turning and sewing hem by machine.
Warp was standard 8/10 cotton, unmercerized.
Weft was 10/2 Peru Naturtex Partners 100% organic cotton.
The wider stripes in the warp are randomly placed, as is the order of the 4 pinstripe colors throughout. The warp is 506 threads plus 4 FS, 2 on each side.
The weft repeats two more times, using a different color pattern (Chambray/Denim/Natural) of Plain Weave and reversed the treadling of the Balanced Twill in the middle section. The third section matches the first section. I designed and wove so each section was section 11″ on the loom.
Edges were a struggle given the different draw in of PW and Twill. Two Floating Selvedges on each side helper keep the edges neat but not straight.
Chambray Blue is the only actual color that matches between warp and weft.
Colors used were all Maurice Brassard.
Warp: Chambray, Jeans, Honey and Creme. Weft: Chambray, Natural, Juane and Denim.
I used 20/2 Cotton in Natural to weave 1.5″ on each end for a less bulky hem.
Finished size is 20″ wide by 28.5″ long.
455 ends – 1 end 6/2 and 2 ends 20/2 per dent in 8 dent reed.
Warp: white thick, white thin
Weft: blue thick, white thin
Used Bluegrass Mills 6/2 cotton from Woolery for thick warp and weft and UKI 20/2 for thin warp and weft.
Used floating selvedges.
Several other patterns on same threading from her book that I plan to try next.
Also want to try using a colored thin weft.
Pattern shows much better after washing and pressing.
This towel is woven in the colors of the Norwegian flag to reflect Caroline Halvorson’s 1904 pattern and my Norwegian heritage. The selvedge has a denser sett, as described by Dixon in her book, A Handweaver’s Pattern Book. Ends Ends 5-8 and 400-403 have two 8/2 threads through each heddle instead of one, and they are sett at 4 ends per dent. Therefore, 407 ends show in this pattern, yet 815 are warped in order to fill the double-threaded heddles.
Weft: Tabby weft – 16/2 unmercerized cotton, color – natural. Pattern weft – 6/2 unmercerized cotton, doubled in each pick. Colors: Royal blue and Cranberry red from the Woolery. The pattern weft overshot throws are shown, also use 16/2 tabby.
I wove the hanging tab of 16/2 unmercerized cotton in a warp-faced plain weave.
I made a few small changes to the draft (especially the tie-up, so I could walk the treadling) but none of my changes alter the result in any significant way and credit for this design belongs fully with Ms. Hall.
This towel used 368 ends and was woven on a Glimåkra Standard. It was 143 grammes after hemming but before wet finishing. I wove with the weft threads wetted.
In the reed it was 15 .25″.
Off the loom it was 15″ and trimmed to 33″ in length. After hemming it was 15″ x 31.5″
After wet finishing it is 14.5″ x 30.75″
440 ends
This was a really fun project, putting 4 threads through 1 heddle gave a really neat texture to the towel.
Tom had a new to me suggestion for hems. Weave your hem length and then put 2 picks in the same shed to create a fold line between the hem and the body of the towel.
Hems were sewn using a zigzag stitch with mitered corners.
Towels were machine washed and then put through the dryer.
I used Parson’s crepe threading, treadling and tie-up as referenced above, but added a band of my own design to one side of the towel.
I used the Brighton Honey Comb towels in Handwoven as a starting point for my springy towels. I decided on 7 stripes of each 3 colors. Each group of three colors was separated by a thinner stripe of white and every stripe had a border color of navy blue. There are a total of 458 ends. The Honey Comb structure lends a nice texture to the towels as well as an interesting jagged edge to each stripe. I enjoyed weaving these towels and the challenge (for me!) of planning all the stripes/color layout.
Dark stripes always begin & end on harness 4 in any number of repeats.
Light stripes always begin & end on harness 1 in any number of repeats. The color order is given in the accompanying chart.
These yarns blend Sally Fox’ green and brown special breed cotton with the finest Upland white cotton from the southern US. The deep shades are 50% colored cotton, 50% white; the pale shades are 12 1/2% colored cotton with 87% white. Once washed the yarn blooms and the colors darken. This towel has been washed.
