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Linen warp bobbins had to be very wet to prevent loops in the selvedge. Tension was a problem throughout and I helped that by spraying the threads. The yarn seems too coarse to make a really nice towel.

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The section on the draft that is labeled to be omitted was included only to illustrate that I used a variety of colors for the last 8 threads of each 40-thread unit.

I used unmercerized cotton for both warp and weft.

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This towel was woven with 4 colors, 2 in the warp and 2 in the weft.

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I started out with Strickler #246, and as I was working with two different shades of red in the weft, I realized how much it reminded me of watermelon. I decided to add some lines in shades of green to represent the rind, along with the reds in the center (and the little bits of black like seeds).

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I use my towel projects as experiments. The draft does not show threads per color stripe, and the final threading was not exactly what my original plan called for. For these towels, the threading (right to left) was: Grey 20, White 4, Grey 12, White 4, Grey 24, Cannell 48, White 40, Sage 56, Grey 64, then reverse for mirror image). Total ends: 480; width in loom: 20″.

On this warp I wove 4 towels, and all have different treadling and design, although the same weft colors were used for all four. Hems are hand stitched.

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Warp Width: 19.5″
Sett: 24
Reed: 12
Sley: double
# Ends: 470
Warp Yarn: unmercerized cotton
Count: 8/2
Color: 6 colors
Weft Yarn: unmercerized cotton
Count: 8/2
Color: 6 colors, same as warp. Used one color for each of the 6 towels.
Finished dimensions: 16.5 x 24
Turned Taqueté

I did not weave the squares described in the Handwoven article, as I was having so much fun weaving bubbles.

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A temple is most useful to prevent draw-in. You can make a coordinated set of towels on the same warp, having fun varying weft colors and block sizes.

480 ends
Sett 2 per dent in a 12-dent reed
Wet finished
Hemmed, hand-stitched

Love this cottolin!